Tuesday, May 15, 2007

These Pumps Are So Good You Can Actually See The Money Being Sucked Out Of My Bank Account Pie

First off let me just say that RHDJAPAN has been great to work with. I placed the order with them yesterday and it didn't go through Paypal properly so they called me (from Tokyo) as soon as they opened to work out the details by phone. They offer a variety of methods of payment, and their shipping rates are pretty reasonable. They also have the best price on new N1 pumps for the RB26, even better than Ebay! I should be recieving the order by Friday or early next week.

*All Prices include shipping from Japan EMS
N1 Oil Pump - $331
N1 Water Pump - $334.51
Tomei Oil Pan Baffle - $194.74
Tomei Oil Gallery Orifice 1.5mm - $14.68

Total - $864.77

I could have shaved a bit more off if I had requested the slower Surface shipping, but it wasn't enough to make the waiting worth it. RHD also sells interior and exterior parts, clutches, and all sorts of random stuff.

In other, less thrilling news, I recieved a pull type clutch instead of the push type that I ordered. So now Justin has to wrap it up and ship it back. No idea how long of a wait that will be, they supposedly have one in stock so hopefully I'll see it this weekend.

In slightly more thrilling (suicide inducing) news, Justin and I did some tear down to reveal the fact that my crank is "bad." If you take off the oil pump and the measured depth of the metal collar that contacts the inside of the pump is less than 16mm, well then you are fucked my friend. If your oil pump drive collar (also called crank collar) is the bad 7mm version, you have two options.

Option 1: Fix it. A perfect writeup on diagnoses and resolution can be found here.
Option 2: Act like you do around that drunk uncle who always tries to touch your ass, ignore it.

Of course since I don't have $1500-2000 to spend on fixing this problem (completely removing the crank and having the new collar machined on, rebalancing, new bearings, clearencing the new bearings...) or just buying a brand spankin new crank with a good collar and just clearencing bearings. Still a shit load of work, and for my purposes, slightly overkill. Of course it would be nice to know that my oil pump drive collar fully fucking connects with my oil pump drive, but for now I think I'll just throw on a new pump every 50k or so (the cheap fix).

I can't believe this design flaw even made it to the factory floor, I mean hell it doesn't take a genius to know that if a collar only connects with half of the drive it will wear unevenly and fail prematurely.

After reading many, many articles on this subject it is clear that how you fix the problem depends on your demands on the engine. If you are building the engine, or are looking for 500+ hp on stock internals then you will want to address this problem before the motor ever goes in your car. However there is a grey area below that number. I am only looking to see 450-475hp, and am not planning on beating the shit out of it, so I am hoping that changing the pump often will stave off the inevitable pop of the pump gear as it breaks at 9000rpm.

Some might call this a naive solution at best, but dammit I don't want to build this motor right now! The next time I'm idly wondering what to do with that $10k just laying around in my savings account gathering dust I'll consider building this motor with a turbo upgrade and fix that fucking collar!

New Project Total: $17,596.77


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